If Diesel campaigns are all about cheek, then Dolce & Gabbana’s are all about correctness. Put another way, they champion rectitude in a world gone to the dogs or at least one perceived to have gone that way. A Dolce & Gabbana campaign is that older Italian brother who takes his junior to task for smoking that first cigarette despite himself being a seasoned pack-a-day smoker.
In Moscow they have it. In Brighton Beach they probably have it. I bet even Andrey Borisenko has it. Manhattan on the other hand likely won’t have it until Madison Avenue launches some sort of très chic glasnost reboot. But what is it they all have? I am talking about the August 2011 issue of Vogue Россия that carries a twelve-page editorial by photographer Ben Toms that features Ford’s Alana Zimmer.
The two hundredth issue of Dazed & Confused is finally on newsstands in Manhattan and rather majestically announces itself with a fancy guest-editor in Iceland’s answer to ubiquity, Björk. The August 2011 issue has its normal features including fashion, music, and everything else, but those that deal with Björk’s forthcoming Biophilia have the feel of an elaborate CD-booklet-cum-Nature-extract.
Although this page typically busies itself with foreign fare that does not also mean there isn’t any room for a domestic dish now and then. And fresh from the short order cook with Hearst Corporation on her foundation-smudged name tag is an Elle August 2011 editorial featuring Ford’s Ranya Mordanova photographed by Carter Smith.
In a recent FACT interview rapper and producer El-P was on to something when he said, “I don’t think ‘fuck you’ ever goes out of style.” No matter the moment in fine art, architecture, literature, music, or especially fashion, the need to savage the past and present in order to create anew will always exist.
Last month the Prada F/W 2011 campaign by Steven Meisel rolled out worldwide taking over commercial hoardings, in-store signage, and of course the opening pages of almost every proper fashion magazine on the planet that has published an issue since then.
“Last, a brief word about this month’s fashion,” writes Vogue editor in chief Ann Wintour in her editor’s letter from the August 2011 “age issue.” She concludes that fashion is an endeavor teeming with surprise (see also Céline Resort 2012 and Givenchy Resort 2012).
The consensus about yesterday’s Evandro Soldati video for W by Santiago Sierra was a collective sproing! that tickled our Facebook Wall and caressed our Twitter mentions. Such is the captivating power of the 6’2″ (188 cm) Brazilian that he returns to this page for a print encore in the form of a Details August 2011 editorial by photographer Robbie Fimmano.
And finally, freedom, specifically Tar 5 Spring 2011 that takes the concept as its point of departure for such disparate contributors as the recently-freed Chinese artist and dissident Ai Weiwei, Moroccan psychiatrist Rita El Khayat, and Centre Pompidou curator Christine Marcel.
Tracking down every last fall campaign in which Ford talent features is not unlike assembling a Panini World Cup sticker album. Collecting the stickers can be well tedious compared to actually watching Lionel Messi tear defenses asunder.